There are magical places that gift you moments etched forever in your mind, no matter how many years pass. One such place is the emergency shelter at Siadi of Myga, nestled beneath Gamila, the impressive peak of Tymfi.
I have been to Tymfi many times, but always from the other side, towards the Astraka refuge and Drakolimni (Dragon Lake) of Tymfi. This was my first time approaching from this side. It all started two years ago when I saw a photo of the emergency shelter and the unique view from that spot online. Since then, it had been my goal to capture this landscape with my camera. And this January, after much organisation and planning, I finally achieved that goal.
The plan was to start the ascent early in the morning, reach the shelter sometime in the afternoon, spend the night there, photograph the night and dawn, and then begin our return. The route is about 10 km long and takes four to five hours under normal conditions, depending on the weight of our packs. Due to the severe weather of the previous two to three days, we expected to find a lot of snow. However, the conditions during our excursion were very cold but sunny.
We packed our things, and the total weight of the photography equipment, food, and all the gear needed for both the overnight stay and the cold resulted in a backpack weighing just under 25 kg. We set off from our base outside the city of Ioannina, heading towards Konitsa. Shortly after dawn, we left the car and, after crossing the beautiful Konitsa bridge where the route begins, we started hiking at an altitude of 600 m, following the path parallel to the Aoos River.
For the first 3.5 km, the path is paved and smooth. Then it starts to climb until we reach the Monastery of Panagia Stomiou at 680 m altitude. We took a short break there and then continued to the Kerassia stream, which we crossed before continuing on the path. Just before the stream, the first signs of snow began to appear, but that was nothing compared to what was to come.
From that point on, the route changed completely. The path was continuously uphill, with a steep slope. The landscape was now completely white, making it difficult to find the trail in many places, as the markings were hidden by the snow. Fortunately, our GPS always guided us out of trouble. The snow reached up to our knees, and combined with the heavy backpacks, it led to fatigue.
After a long time, we reached the Kalogeriko location, which leads to the pass at 1300 m. The slope became gentler, and Siadi of Myga was about 2 km away. However, the difficulties we encountered, along with the fatigue, resulted in a long delay. The route is unique, on the imposing northern side of Tymfi, but the sun began to disappear behind the peaks, the temperature dropped rapidly, and it started snowing.
Fortunately, our final destination was not far away. After a tiring hike that lasted twice as long as expected, and just before the last light disappeared, we reached a special plateau at 1460 m altitude, where we enthusiastically saw the wooden hut that would be our shelter for the night. The view was unique. We were surrounded by black pines, firs, and beeches, and opposite us, the northern cliff of Gamila stood like a giant.
The first thing we did after entering the shelter was to light the wood stove. It may be an emergency shelter, but it has many things that make your stay easier: firewood for the stove, food, cooking utensils, and even a chainsaw for cutting wood. Of course, when leaving, we must leave it in the condition we found it, replenish what we consumed, and, if we wish, leave something for the next visitors. It is the unwritten rule of emergency shelters, ensuring they remain welcoming and functional.
After regaining our strength and warmth, we cooked on the wood stove and made rakomelo, a traditional warm and aromatic Greek drink made by gently heating raki or tsipouro with honey and spices such as cinnamon and cloves. Gradually, it was time to fulfil the second goal of this excursion: photography. The first was hiking and staying in this unique place.
After dressing warmly and taking our equipment, we stepped outside. A magical silence enveloped the forest. The temperature was below zero, and the combination of cold, clean air and the faint smell of burnt wood from the stove was wonderful. The sky was clear, with only passing clouds, and the moon began to rise behind us, illuminating the landscape and the peaks of Tymfi.
Occasionally, fog appeared, covering the landscape or drifting through the trees, creating a mysterious atmosphere. The snow shimmered under the moonlight like silver. After finding my frame, I realised that Sirius, the brightest star, hovered above the peak of Gamila. To its right was the constellation Orion, and in the upper right corner, Jupiter made its presence felt among the clouds. What more could I ask for?
